The Gulf

We are just south of the Fairweather Grounds, 39 nautical miles offshore of Lituya Bay. The seas are 1-2 feet with an occasional 4 footer. Winds are almost on the nose, of course, at 6-8 knots. We are 57 hours into the crossing with another 16-19 to go.

We left Ellamar Sunday, August 30. Although it was fair in the Tatitlek Narrows and over to Point Freemantle, the fog bank began about 5 miles south of Bligh Reef and continued all the way across the Sound. We broke out about 5 miles northwest of Hinchinbrook Island and it was beautiful all the way into Garden Cove.

While we were waiting for Steve on the S/V Resolute to arrive, a fellow came driving up to the boat in a skiff. Turned out to be Nick Dennis, owner of the Nuchek Lodge on the spit at Constantine Harbor. We drank beer and chatted. Nice guy. He left and a half hour later the Resolute was rafted up to Blue Note. After checking the weather we made plans to cross the Gulf early in the morning.

Monday dawned overcast and calm. I was able to call Dirk as we motored out of the anchorage. We rounded the corner at Hinchinbrook Entrance and the marathon began.

The shortest path from the Entrance to Sitka grazes the south end of Kayak Island about 68 miles into the Gulf. From there it is 310 miles to Sitka. At an average speed of 5 knots, that’s a little over 75 hours running time. That is 3 days exposure to some of the fiercest weather imaginable. This time of year the storms are closer together and more intense making for smaller and smaller windows of relatively settled seas and winds to make the crossing. As an example, this window opened Sunday afternoon and looks like it will close Thursday afternoon.

Both Blue Note and Resolute are typical sailboats. That is they can approach and occasionally exceed hull speed under sail. Motoring, they are underpowered. Neither can go much faster that 6.5 knots without overtaxing the engine. The irony is that the safest weather in which to cross is virtually windless. It’s true of this one. Blue Note has been motorsailing all but maybe 2 to 3 hours. It’s a long time to listen to the drone of the engine.

It hasn’t been boring though. A collapsed heater hose, a botched fuel tank switchover, and a dog too fastidious to poop or pee on the boat have kept things lively. The first night was spent in a wicked beam seas, causing the vandals to come visiting. That’s when all the stuff that is supposed to be in cupboards and counters ends up stirred around and mixed on the cabin sole.

My life is ruled by a kitchen timer. Every 20 minutes it goes off prompting me to survey the horizon if it is daylight or the radar if it is dark. We’ve encountered 2 tankers, a cruise ship and several fishing boats so far. It is some comfort traveling with another boat as 2 watch standers are better than one. We have been swapping two hour wheel watches which allows for some rest.

The timer has gone off again and there is a target on the radar on an intersecting course. Probably a long liner fishing the Fairweather Grounds. More later.

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