Little Norway continued

Tuesday afternoon. Mostly cloudy, light winds, 50 give or take. The forecast is for rain and wind: typical October weather for Southeast.

Well I’m still in Petersburg. I think it is due more to inertia than desire. Don’t get me wrong, I like Petersburg. It’s just that to get somewhere else takes more effort than I care to expend right now. That and the fact that I won’t travel around here in the dark is keeping me tied to the dock.

So what’s going on? Well last Saturday night I went to the 4^th annual Devil’s Thumb Brewfest and Chili Cookoff. It was held upstairs in the Sons of Norway Hall. This building was built nearly 100 years ago and is located on Sing Lee Alley above Hammer Slough. It is a listed national historical building. This status has apparently caused some consternation amongst the Sons and Daughters as the soft fir floor downstairs was recently replaced with a new white oak floor. No problem upstairs though. It’s carpeted. Anyway, this fest was very well attended, both by cooks and brewers, as well as eaters and drinkers. There were at least ten different chilis and several homebrew beers and wines as well as a rhubarb liqueur. After paying the entry fee, I was issued a baggie with 5 or 6 beans in it. Turns out each contestant had a covered cup in which the eaters and drinkers voted by depositing their beans. Now in my opinion, chili does NOT contain beans. There just so happened to be one cook who shared my opinion. Fortunately, he had concocted a very tasty moose chili as I really didn’t want to vote for something I didn’t like. He got two of my beans. I deposited one bean in the cup of a really cute cook who had entered a tasty black bean chili. (Hey what can I say? I’m a guy. :-) ) My other beans went to the brewers of a very tasty porter and the rhubarb liqueur. I think part of the reason for my attending was the hope of maybe seeing someone I knew from when I lived here 29 years ago. It was a ridiculous hope as the folks that I knew then have changed beyond my recognition as I undoubtedly have. Oh and for those of you who are wondering what the title refers to, Devil’s Thumb is a spectacular granite massif that protrudes from the range east of Petersburg and is both a geographical landmark and a boundary peak between Alaska and Canada.

I was disappointed to find that the Forest Service had taken over all of the building on the corner of Main and Haugen and that the Post Office had moved up near the airport. Seems to me they got it exactly backwards. It is a good cardio workout pedaling up the hill on the bike but not much fun in the rain.

Monday a week ago I joined the movie rental store. They seemed to have a decent selection and a lot of the older movies were only a dollar. Imagine my surprise when I was charged $4 each for a 3 year old movie and a 2 year old movie. I thought it was a little steep but I wanted to see them so I paid. I returned them the next night. After the Brewfest I went in and was careful to pick out two $1 movies. The girl at the counter asked if I was going to pay the late fees on the two prior movies. I refused, saying I had only had them one night. She said I hadn’t gotten them back by 6 PM and that she couldn’t do anything about it but that the person who could would be in the next day. I went in the next day and talked with her about the fine saying that I was a new member and wasn’t familiar with all of the rules. She asked if I signed the paper when I joined. I said I did but didn’t get a copy. She said that you don’t get a copy but that the 6 o’clock rule was also posted on the door and on a white board above the counter. The whiteboard was facing in another direction and to read it I had to move around to another counter. When I pointed out how old the movies were she offered to forgive the fine on the 3 year old movie but not the 2 year old movie. At that point I mentioned to her that I had spent $17 that week in her store, that her pricing was high in my experience, and that she was in competition with cable TV and Netflix. I asked her if she wanted my business. She replied that people came in every day asking for forgiveness on their fines and that I owed her $4. I cancelled my membership. It’s little wonder to me why she has to charge high prices. Sorry for the rant.

I am enjoying Petersburg though. With the exception of the movie rental experience my interaction with the residents here has been nothing but positive. I haven’t decided to winter over here yet but with each passing day it’s becoming more likely.

The pics are of the views I have when I slide open the hatch and of the boat from the parking lot outside of where my shop used to be.

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Petersburg

Sunday morning in Petersburg. It is high overcast and calm, around 50. We’re moored in the North Harbor with a view of Kupreanof across the Narrows to one side and where my shop used to be on Main Street to the other.

We got a late start leaving Juneau. I had planned to go to Taku Harbor but it would have violated one of my primary safety rules, i.e., no after-dark anchoring. Instead we headed to Admiralty Cove. It was less than 14 miles but it got us out of Auke Bay. Auke Bay is the Juneau terminus for the State ferry system and whenever one comes in or out, the wake they produce rolls through the Statter Harbor unimpeded, causing the boats to slam against the floats. Not a relaxing situation.

It was a good call. The afternoon was beautiful. We watched the humpback whales feed in Stephens Passage all the way down to Admiralty Cove. After anchoring, I fired up the barbeque, cooked a buffalo burger and ate in the sun on the foredeck. After dinner I launched the skiff, and Jazz and I explored the cove before going ashore for Jazz’s business. The evening was magical with the silvery moon path shimmering across the water.

The morning dawned rainy and foggy and stayed that way almost all the way to Taku Harbor. In 2000, when I brought the boat north, Karen and I anchored in Taku Harbor and spent a very pleasant evening and morning. I was prepared to do the same but was surprised to find a new float. So instead we spent the night tied along side.

Thursday was another dry day, rare for Southeast in October. As we made the turn into Stephens Passage plumes from the whales could be seen all along the west side. They accompanied us all the way to our anchorage in Gambier Bay. Hundreds of them in pods from two to eight, circling, blowing, then diving. The slow arch and then the flukes in the air prior to diving lent a majesty that dominated the day. The feeling of loss as we left them to maneuver to our anchorage was palpable.

That night I plotted distances to our potential destinations for the next day, the choices being Baranof Warm Springs across Chatham Strait and Petersburg across Frederick Sound. The distances are roughly equal, approximately 55 miles, making for a long travel day. Petersburg won, probably for its ability to provide two-way conversation as Baranof Warm Springs is pretty lonely this time of year.

The whales were still feeding in lower Stephens Passage when we left Gambier Bay. As we came abeam The Five Fingers, they were breaching and slapping their fins. It was quite a show. Unfortunately the distance exceeded the capabilities of my little camera.

So here we are in Petersburg. I have spoken with several people I knew from when we lived here. I enjoyed reminiscing with Heidi Lee and Ron Loesch gave me a tour of his printing plant. KFSK was wrapping up their pledge week and Heidi talked me into visiting. Yesterday morning I went in and was put on the air with Matt Lichtenstein and Joe Viechnicki, two names and voices I was familiar with from APRN and especially Alaska News Nightly. We chatted about KFSK’s early history and my small part in it back in the late 70’s. In the afternoon I watched the 14^th running of the Humpy 500 on PFI hill. This is a soap-box-derby-like affair with teams of children competing in costumes and interesting rolling contraptions. It is a typical Petersburg celebration where a portion of Main Street is blocked off and several hundred show up rain or shine to cheer the participants on. I didn’t stay for the final heats but it looked to me like the Black Cod Pearl team replete in their pirate getups and rolling pirate ship was the team to beat.

Apologies to Lou for the lack of whale pics. For the most part they were too far away for my meager photography equipment and when they were closer I attempted to capture their splendor using the video function on my little Sony digital completely forgetting to take any stills. I’m not looking forward to the verbal lashing she’s going to give me. Oh well. The first pic is of the intrepid crew of Blue Note standing in front of the Forest Service cabin in Taku Harbor. The second one is of a humpback taken on the way to Admiralty Cove.

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Not long for Juneau, I think

Sunday afternoon. It’s overcast and calm, about 50 degrees. The forecast is calling for rain tonight and tomorrow with a party cloudy day on Tuesday.

We are in Auke Bay, Juneau, having arrived on Friday afternoon. We had two great travel days getting here. Thursday, the wind was right on the nose until we left Tenakee Inlet, but when we turned north in Chatham Strait, the wind was on our stern. We had a wonderful run up Chatham, sometimes wing-and-wing, sometimes reaching depending on the wind shifts. At times we were hitting over 8 knots, which is about as fast as Blue Note can sustain. And because we were traveling with the wind it was warm in the sun.

We got to Funter Bay about 7 in the evening and rather than anchoring we tied to a float. Friday dawned clear and calm. We had a leisurely morning, leaving a little after 10, and arriving here around 3, after a very pleasant motorsail. What a beautiful day for October in Southeast. It was warm enough for cocktails on the foredeck at 5.

I enjoyed Tenakee Springs. Wednesday afternoon I had a nice chat with the gal who was working in Snyder Mercantile and then tried out the hot springs. A relaxing hour soak, then around the corner to the Blue Moon Café where I had a good meal and a entertaining talk with the proprietess Rosie, “The Queen of Tenakee.” Originally from the Philippines, she has lived in Tenakee since 1955! What a character.

So here we are in Auke Bay. I’m not liking it much. I was considering staying here for a week or more, perhaps even spending the winter but not now. The wifi connections here suck. There is no commercially available one in Auke Bay and I’m pirating one from whomever I can get it. It’s frustrating. The worst thing though is there isn’t anything here except a combination gas station-liquor store-minimart. Everything is at least 2 miles away via a road whose speed limit is 50. Not much fun on a bicycle. Yesterday I took the bus three miles to Fred Meyer. It’s actually a pretty good bus service. But since I had to get dog food I had to take a cab back, an $18 ride. I’m thinking of heading down Stephens Passage towards Petersburg on Tuesday. We’ll see.

If the connection holds I’ll try to upload some pics of Tenakee.

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Tenakee!

Wednesday midday. Weather is light rain, 50 degrees, wind E at 15 gusting 25.

We’re tied to D float, Tenakee Springs. We got in last night at 7:00, after a long but very pleasant motor from Poison Cove in Peril Strait.

We left Sitka Monday a little after 10 in the morning. I wanted to leave earlier to take advantage of the tide but neither the harbormaster’s office nor the fuel dock were open early enough. The weather was gorgeous. We encountered a chill wind out of the north as soon as we cleared the breakwater that continued until we reached Kakul Strait. Needless to say, it was hard on the nose, preventing any use of the sails. We were anchored in Poison Cove by 5:00PM.

Tuesday dawned clear and cold, cold enough for the dew to be frozen on the deck and the seas to be steaming. We were underway by 8. There was no wind, and by 10, the deck was dry and the day was warm. The cruise down Peril Strait to Chatham was beautiful. Jazz and I spent most of it lounging on the foredeck, listening to the bow wave and watching the countryside slide by. Chatham Strait was a mill pond, hardly a breath of wind. As we approached Tenakee Inlet, it had begun to cloud over and the wind began to blow, on the nose of course.

Last night I walked through the village of Tenakee Springs. It consists of a four-wheeler trail, barely wide enough to pass, that winds along the north shore of the Inlet for about a mile or so. There are buildings above and below the ‘road’ most of the way, with the ‘springs’ at about the midway point, adjacent to the fuel dock ramp. I put springs in quotes because they are a bath house about 20’ x 30’. I would have gone in last night but segregation of the sexes is practiced and it was women’s hours when I was there. I plan to check the scene out when men’s hours start this afternoon. Across from the bath house is the store. It wasn’t open, another delayed discovery opportunity.

The harbormaster came by last night after we got tied up, a very nice lady by the name of Wendy. She said that AC was available but that it was $20 a day. It’s $19.60 a day for Blue Note just to be moored with no AC. We are sheltered from the wind and most of the wave action but not from the rude boaters who haven’t figured out what “no wake” means.

Tenakee Springs has no cell service or at least no CDMA cell service. I haven’t tried the wifi since it’s likely the only internet service to the village is via satellite making a wifi enterprise too expensive. I’ve had no problem with being cut off as it were, but I do notice I talk to strangers just to have a conversation. Jazz is a great traveling companion but his vocabulary is somewhat lacking.

The forecast this morning sounds like tomorrow might be good for travel. I’m thinking of heading to Auke Bay, Juneau, with a stop overnight at Funter Bay. We’ll see what the forecast is this afternoon.

Update: As I was walking to the bath house I noticed a couple of wifi antennas so I strung mine up when I got down to the boat. Dada, an internet connection. I’m going to try to upload this. We’ll see.

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Old boat, old body

Thursday morning. Overcast, low 50s. Rain is in the forecast and a wind advisory is posted for Sitka Sound this afternoon.

Well I’m still in Sitka. Last weekend I was able to repair the cooling system on the engine to my satisfaction without The Part. It involved finding a preformed hose of the proper dimensions and carefully clamping it on to the damaged hose barb. The hose has to make an almost 180 degree bend and I was afraid of putting too much stress on the broken piece by bending a straight hose to fit. Napa to the rescue. I ran the engine for an hour on Saturday with no leaks. I had a bit of a start when the temp climbed to 205. I was beginning to think there might be something else wrong when it dropped back to 180. Must have been the thermostat hanging up before it opened. Anyway, no more cooling issues observed. When I reorder The Part I will order a thermostat. Monday I ran the engine for 45 minutes and changed the oil.

I spent Monday and Tuesday running around for last minute stuff. I was happy to see my fishing license in the post office. Thank you Susan!

Because the route to Tenakee Springs goes through several narrow straits, it’s important to use the tidal current to your advantage, especially with a slow boat like the Blue Note. The currents can reach 8 knots in Sergius Narrows and if your vessel is only capable of 6½, it’s obvious that timing is crucial. The tides on Wednesday dictated a departure time of 1:00 PM to get through Olga and Neva Straits, with an overnight stay in Sukoi Inlet to catch low slack water at Sergius Narrows Thursday morning. That way we could ride the tide through Peril Strait and on to Chatham Strait.

Best laid plans… Tuesday night I hit the liquor and grocery stores. All that remained was to settle up with the harbormaster, stop at the fuel dock, and go. Wednesday morning I hopped out of bed and was bending over when something went out in my lower back. The pain drove me to my knees and brought tears to my eyes. It was all I could do to stagger into the head, swallow some ibuprofen, and crawl into bed. I spent all day flat on my back. Fortunately I had a good book. It was a struggle taking Jazz to do his business.

As I write this, the pain has pretty much subsided. I can move around without looking like a cripple. The only problem is now the weather doesn’t look very good for the next day or two. I’ll check the long range forecast when it comes out this afternoon and make new plans.

The pic shows our route to Tenakee Springs. Google Earth is so cool!

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